If you are a fairly experienced or a novice folder in the art of Origami, I am sure you would, at some point in time, had the following question on your mind - why doesn't my finished model look like the image in the book?
The answer to that is the type of paper you have used (assuming you have folded the model properly). Origami paper has come a long way to meet the advancing techniques in Origami since its early beginnings.
For most simple models, using common copier paper is the best and will give you the desired look and feel. However, for intermediate and complex models, this is simply not so. Michael LaFosse's Origamido paper on the other hand, magically breathes life into the object you fold. It seems that the paper is made for a specific model and this can be rightly said so. If you ever got a chance to look at some of Michael LaFosse's finished work, you will be amazed!
Michael LaFosse "makes" these wonderful sheets of paper in his studio in Hawaii and offers sheets for sale once in a while. Currently, at the time I write this article they are on sale (maximum allowed is the purchase of 1 sheet per color) in Nicholas Terry's Origami-Shop. Some of the most popular Origamists in the world today, such as Robert J. Lang, etc try and purchase paper from Michael LaFosse. These papers all pH-balanced and are made using a special recipe. In addition to this, the coloring used is from mineral pigments hence these won't fade off easily.
Michael LaFosse's books explain how the Origamido paper is made and the effort, which goes into it. The texture and composition of these sheets make them ideal for complex models, as well as for those which require wet folding / shaping to be carried out on them. His book - Advanced Origami: An Artists Guide to Performances in Paper - contain 'recipes' in making this Origamido paper. Tips on dyeing / coloring the paper are also provided.
Based on the type of model you are folding, you would need to select the appropriate paper. Most origami books in the market mention the kind of paper, which is ideal for the fold as well as the preferred size to start off with. An overview of various kinds of paper and its suitability to folding follows.
Kami
Kami is the best for practice folds or models, which do not require shaping or wet folding. Kami is also known as common origami paper, which you get in packs containing 5-inch or 6-inch sheets. Mostly found as single-side colored sheets, these sheets are ideal for simple to intermediate origami designs. Since these are mass-produced or made by machine, these will not be perfect squares. The "shape" of these squares are affected by humidity, dryness (weather changes, in short) they experience during shipment.
Tant
Tant paper is a lot better than kami and can hold creases easily. These are thin sheets of paper and are almost always duo-colored. Available in a wide variety of colors and sizes, this kind of paper is ideal for slightly complex folds, which do not involve wet folding. The surface texture of this paper is slightly rough giving it a bare minimum surface design. Nicholas Terry's Origami-Shop goes one step further on customizing this paper for his customers and has these ordered all the way from Japan in special large sizes making it easy to fold complex origami. Further, his paper is also suitable for minimum wet folding, compatible with methylcellulose and foil. Among his collection of paper packs on sale, Tant paper is the most popular.
Foil-Backed / Tissue Foil
Another great kind of paper, which is good for folding intermediate to complex models, is tissue foil or simply foil paper. This paper can also be created at home using commonly found tissue paper and your handy kitchen aluminum foil. To stick these sheets together, it is advisable to use adhesives meant for paper products especially wall papers. A thick brush can be used to "release" the air bubbles, which form in between the sheets glued together. This kind of paper is ideal for models, which require shaping. There is no need to wet fold these, you can simply "form" the shape desired by 'bending' the tissue foil paper. One main drawback of this paper is that creases formed and unfolded due to errors or as reference points continue to exist in the model even after completion. That is, a fold once made cannot be removed entirely.
For a look-a-see at various kinds of models folded with the above types of paper, do visit Origamiancy. This site also refers to instructional videos, paper making and diagrams to various origami models. These artifacts are currently available on the Internet with the permission of the Origami creator.
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